So, grab your beverage of choice, preferably a NZ or Aussie beer (but Guinness is fine, too). Put on some listening music (Miles Davis is my choice here right now, but you know, whatever yanks your chain). Sit back, relax, and read (and maybe gaze at some photos).
And for starters: no, I have not seen any hobbits, orcs, ents, elves, dwarves, or any other middle earth beings.
So, the final day in Brisbane (well, temporarily, anyway, I fly home from there) went well. Picnic in the park on Christmas eve was a very nice way to spend an afternoon. Followed by drinks in the bar. It was nice and quiet and composed. The next day, it was a sad goodbye, and I got my passport stamped yet again, and arrived in New Zealand.
Christmas was a wash. No stores open. Wellington is a nice capital city, I found. On the 26th, I took off on a day trip to Karori Wildlife Sanctuary. New Zealand originally had no native mammals (aside from bats), and as such many of their native birds and reptiles evolved with no terrestrial predators. Karori has tried to recreate that, by designing a full predator exclosure fence in the middle of the city. No cats, no possums, no rats. All the animals inside the exclosure are free roaming, wild animals.
After my Scuba experience on the great barrier reef in 1998, this is the second coolest thing I have done/seen. The native birds seem to have no (significant) fear of man...many came up right close to me. And some just blew my mind. Tuis flying right by my head. Falcons chasing songbirds around. Ducks looking for food. And the Tuataras (that's a type of ancient reptile) just hanging out, doing their thing.Needless to say, I focused on the bird life. Coming into New Zealand, if my calculations were correct, I was at 1.994 birds for the world. Karori gave me much more than I expected. The pied shag (Karuhiruhi), pictured above. New Zealand Pigeon. Gray Warbler (or Gergone). Shining Cuckoo. New Zealand Scaup (number 1.199). Photo below (for my non-bird friends, a scaup is a type of duck).
But I wasn't nearly done yet. I eventually left the water areas, and began walking in the woods. I didn't have to do much searching. The birds came to me. Here it is folks (and I am happy it was a native NZ bird, not an introduced species):
That, my friends, is the New Zealand Saddleback, or Tieke. Bird number 1.200 for the world! A fantastic find! And I'm happy I got his photo (not until today did I know exactly which bird was 1.200). But Karori didn't stop there! Nope, the North Island Kaka helped grow the list more. As well as the North Island Robin. The Hihi. The Bellbird. The New Zealand Falcon. The New Zealand Fantail. Yep, all this was well worth it. I spent all day there, till the gates closed. Boy, was I happy!And thus began the days of transportation, and rain...
From Wellington (North Island of New Zealand), I stocked up on some camping supplies (like stove fuel), and then headed south. A 3 hour ferry ride later, I landed in Picton and spent the night. From there, it was a 3 hour drive (shuttle) to Nelson Lakes/St Arnaud.
I altered my plans a little bit, and decided that since St. Arnaud was such a small town...I would camp out for the New Year, and hike out on New Years day. Good decision on my part! Day one of my hike had a bit of rain...to put it mildly. And lots of mud. LOTS of mud. And lots of wet stream crossings, which conveniently washed off the mud. My rain gear got wet, while I did not...so that was nice.
The tramp was a good way to force myself to slow down. I saw rain, and hail. I did have to wear my winter woolies too...it got cold in there! But, being so far south, I had lots of daylight for hiking...when I finally laid down on New Years eve, it was somewhat light out at 10 pm!
The last new bird for 2009 was the Rifleman. Not only that, but I think that was the last bird I saw, too. Just a small little guy, but a real charmer. Kind of like a nuthatch at home, personality wise. My camp was very nice, in a perfect setting.
So, 2009 started the year in Costa Rica, and it was the year of the Rufous Piha (first bird I saw). The year began with me shy of my 1.100th bird. It ended on the rifleman, over a hundred new birds later (I did not expect to pass 1.200 in 2009).
2010 is the year of the New Zealand South Island Tomtit (think Chickadee like). Boy, that bird is a mouthful! But a real personality...hopefully a good omen for the new year.
Well, after day one, the rain for the most part stayed away, and the skies stayed clear. Some fantastic views of the Southern Alps were had. As well as great views of waterfall, after waterfall, after waterfall...they are beyond counting. I saw snow (on the ground, not falling). And lots of gorgeous scenery. And a loooonnnnggg walk out. With countless stream crossings (seriously, I didn't count...I figured after the 20th time, I really didn't want to know!).
So, in short, Nelson lakes was a great way to start the new year! I am very glad my friend down here recommended it as a place to go. It got me a few new birds too: Tomtit, Rifleman, black swan (introduced), and the 'infamous' kea. If you don't know what these are, there are the most curious parrot you'd ever meet. They are known to destroy vehicles, grabbing at the rubber edging, wires, you name it. We had one come to the hut the first night.
The best part of the trip though, was perhaps the South Island Robin. For sheer cheekiness! I took a break one day to have my lunch (peanut butter and crackers), and was sitting down near the trail. A couple of the robins came by to say hi. And eventually hopped right on my foot. And my knee. And poked at my bag of food. And then chased each other around and UNDER my legs.
I think I have an idea of what the galapagos might be like...
Well, from there, it was a night in St. Arnaud, and the traditional post-tramp gorge. Beer and chocolate (and yes, I had a main course in between that!). Then, the beginning of travels.
And lots of rain. Lots and lots of rain. I'm used to it (from Ecuador, Costa Rica, Hawaii...). But I'm on vacation here! It wouldn't be so bad, except it was pouring, so even birding was out. And short hikes too...what's the point when you can't see the grand views? But, I did put the day off to good use...I rested.
So, I have wound my way along the west coast. Took in some glacier sites at Fox Glacier. Even got a new bird out of it: South Island Pied Oystercatcher. Then continued on here to adrenaline charged queenstown.
Which brings us up to date. The next main part of the trip should be lots of fun: Stewart Island! More my style for personal time: isolated island. No non-native predators. Kiwis, Penguins, Albatrosses. And hopefully ample photo opportunities. Another tramp. And a lot fewer people too! I'm getting there earlier than I planned, but I like it that way. I won't feel so constrained for time on the island.
The bird list, since Karori, has still grown. Aside from the above mentioned Oystercatcher, I have also seen the Kotuku (white heron), and a few other birds here and there.
Well, my computer here didn't seem to like my other memory card. So, no other pictures to include at the moment. But rest assured, I am happy, well fed, well rested. And I am spending less on certain things than expected (food), but more on others (transport)...so, for the most part, I'm doing ok. I can't wait for my tramp on Stewart! I don't hold out high hopes for the kiwi...but man, with the sun up at 6 am, and down at 10 pm...those guys will have to come out during the day to feed on Stewart. Keep your fingers crossed.
Well, belated Merry Christmas everyone. Belated Happy New Year, too. Hopefully, everyone is healthy again when I get home (stop getting sick, people!). I will end this with an update on my New Years resolutions (well, some, anyway):
-get a permanent, full time job. Somewhere (hopefully guiding)
-see my 1.300th life bird
-see my 450th bird in the US, including my first Snowy Owl
-go someplace new
-get out more!
-see my friends more (it would help if they weren't all over the place, but what can you do?)
-write in my blog more
-write in my journal more
-get a weeklong plus tramp/backpack in (maybe Adirondacks?)
-see family more
Okay, I bid you all a good day (or evening). I will hopefull get another post up within a week...it will depend on what I do on Stewart in what order (a three night tramp is scheduled).
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