This will stick with me for the rest of my life.
Sunday, January 17, 2010
Pictures are worth a thousand words...
Friday, January 15, 2010
Embrace the mud!
Okay, this will perhaps be my last post from Kiwi land; though I will try to get another up the day before I leave (2 days from now). Only a few things left to accomplish here. I have to send a package home of camping gear, and go on my first (and only) guided tour tomorrow. I am off to photograph up close and personal the New Zealand Fur Seal, Toroa, and Hoiho. A future post should have some wonderful shots.
And the weather FINALLY changed for the better! I'm not sure if it is location, or a change in pattern. But whatever, I like it! Bright sunny skies, few clouds. It's not quite shorts weather...but it sure beats wearing muddy rain gear (more on that in a moment).
And for those Harry Potter nuts out there, I am staying at Hogwarts. Seriously. That's the name of my hostel. Pretty neat. It's a converted house; the bishop for the cathedral used to live there. In essence, the place is huge.
But the stories the past week are all about the tramp. Some disappointment: I never did spy a kiwi. Heard a lot. Saw a few tracks. But no visual. But some excitement: I did see Banded Dotterel (now you know where my e-mail name is from...), Fernbird (the bird I missed on Ulva), New Zealand Pipit, and Skylark. And the most wonderful secluded beach. And the most wonderful huts.
And fun with mud. Embrace the mud. Love the mud. Sometimes even accidentally eating the mud.
All the rain on stewart the past, well, month or so, made for some wonderful hiking conditions. Photos to come at a future date. I had my waterproof boots. Gaiters. Rain pants. Rain coat. Rain hat. Pack cover. So, I managed to stay (at the skin level), dry. But at times I walked in water just below my waist. ON THE TRAIL. Other times I walked in mud, up to my waist. ON THE TRAIL. These kiwis know how to make a trail! I was forewarned about Stewart, and it did not disappoint. Once you learn to embrace the mud, you enjoy yourself. Oh, and I had it easy on my parts of the trail. A few of the others on the island were worse, from talking to others. One couple I ran into had a mud line at chest height. Egad! I look forward to my next opportunity!
For comparison purposes: Ecuador was never this muddy, just wet. Rara avis in Costa Rica doesn't come close. And neither does Hawaii. When you take a step without knowing if you are going to sink 6 inches or 6 feet (!), it makes for some lively stepping! It was the perfect way to relax and enjoy myself on the last leg of my trip. And of course I enjoyed my usual post tramp food binge and beer.
I bid you all a good day. Future posts should be including lots and lots of photos, since I will back stateside. I will see many of you soon, I hope!
And the weather FINALLY changed for the better! I'm not sure if it is location, or a change in pattern. But whatever, I like it! Bright sunny skies, few clouds. It's not quite shorts weather...but it sure beats wearing muddy rain gear (more on that in a moment).
And for those Harry Potter nuts out there, I am staying at Hogwarts. Seriously. That's the name of my hostel. Pretty neat. It's a converted house; the bishop for the cathedral used to live there. In essence, the place is huge.
But the stories the past week are all about the tramp. Some disappointment: I never did spy a kiwi. Heard a lot. Saw a few tracks. But no visual. But some excitement: I did see Banded Dotterel (now you know where my e-mail name is from...), Fernbird (the bird I missed on Ulva), New Zealand Pipit, and Skylark. And the most wonderful secluded beach. And the most wonderful huts.
And fun with mud. Embrace the mud. Love the mud. Sometimes even accidentally eating the mud.
All the rain on stewart the past, well, month or so, made for some wonderful hiking conditions. Photos to come at a future date. I had my waterproof boots. Gaiters. Rain pants. Rain coat. Rain hat. Pack cover. So, I managed to stay (at the skin level), dry. But at times I walked in water just below my waist. ON THE TRAIL. Other times I walked in mud, up to my waist. ON THE TRAIL. These kiwis know how to make a trail! I was forewarned about Stewart, and it did not disappoint. Once you learn to embrace the mud, you enjoy yourself. Oh, and I had it easy on my parts of the trail. A few of the others on the island were worse, from talking to others. One couple I ran into had a mud line at chest height. Egad! I look forward to my next opportunity!
For comparison purposes: Ecuador was never this muddy, just wet. Rara avis in Costa Rica doesn't come close. And neither does Hawaii. When you take a step without knowing if you are going to sink 6 inches or 6 feet (!), it makes for some lively stepping! It was the perfect way to relax and enjoy myself on the last leg of my trip. And of course I enjoyed my usual post tramp food binge and beer.
I bid you all a good day. Future posts should be including lots and lots of photos, since I will back stateside. I will see many of you soon, I hope!
Sunday, January 10, 2010
Ulva
To answer the question. Ulva is a predator free (no possums, no rats, no mice) island off the coast of Stewart Island, New Zealand, where the Department of Conservation has re-introduced many of the native bird species from New Zealand. The birds can eat, drink, and be merry, because they don't have to worry about any predators. Except sometimes a very inquisitive gull.
It was fantastic to have the opportunity to walk through a habitat that was very much what New Zealand, as a whole, used to be like. Lots of Ferns and other similar plants. Lots of moss. Lots of mud (but today, I had a boardwalk). And lots of close encounters with native birds.
The first birds of the island were the two common water birds seen in these parts, the Red-billed Gull, and Black Oystercatcher. They have both been giving me ample photo opportunities.
Then, it was off to the interior of the island. And what do I spy but one of the two most cheekiest birds I have encountered here in New Zealand, the Weka (Stewart Island species). Followed very quickly by the other cheeky species, the Robin (Stewart Island subspecies).
It was going to be a good day. Well worth the water taxi trip out there.
I spent all day (well, 9 am to 4 pm) on the island. It was paradise...though a bit cooler than a tropical beach. But very little rain, even some sun, so no complaints! It was fantastic to walk on well trodden tracks that were not muddy, walk along the beaches followed by the Wekas, watch penguins swimming just off shore. Yes, I got to watch them again today. How awesome is this place?
And, I got two of my three target birds for this part of the trip. Yellowhead (the more important of the three to get), and the Brown Creeper. No relation to the North American Brown Creeper. It took a while to get that first look at one. But after I did, I couldn't not see them, or hear them. After the tui and bellbird, they may have been the most abundant bird out there.
Near the end of my time on the island, I got to just sit and watch (well, stand and watch) as a South Island Kaka went to town on the flowers of one of the trees here. It's hard to describe how massive this parrot is. Very vocal too, though this guy was so preoccupied with his flowers he paid me no mind.
I also got fantastic views of the New Zealand Pigeon. It nearly makes up for missing the Wompoo Fruit Dove in Australia. But, as I am well known for saying, I always need an excuse to go back somewhere. This guy was waiting by the dock to bird me farewell. Though I will be seeing plenty more of them over the next few days, I am sure.
So, the next stage of the journey remains here on Stewart Island. I get a water taxi tomorrow to take me up to Freshwater Hut. This cuts a full day and half out of walking time, and allows me to have more time to hunt for the 5th item on the to-do list here. Yep, it's Kiwi hunting time (not rifle style, just spotting style). It felt weird to pack my bag today without my tent in it. Since I will be staying in huts, no need. It's amazing how much easier it is to fit everything in it. I have all my foul weather gear too, since I will expect that day 4 will enjoy a very wet and muddy slog. As in, up to my knees mud. I'm looking forward to the adventure! I even spend 2 nights in one camp, to allow me the best opportunity to spy a Kiwi. I am finishing Stewart Island in grand style. I'm already looking forward to my post-adventure feast and beer. Hopefully a celebratory one.
It's hard to believe this adventure is nearing it's end. When I come out (hopefully very happy) on Friday, I will be only 4 days from venturing back to Australia, and 5 days from heading back to New York.
I bid you adieu, for now.
It was fantastic to have the opportunity to walk through a habitat that was very much what New Zealand, as a whole, used to be like. Lots of Ferns and other similar plants. Lots of moss. Lots of mud (but today, I had a boardwalk). And lots of close encounters with native birds.
The first birds of the island were the two common water birds seen in these parts, the Red-billed Gull, and Black Oystercatcher. They have both been giving me ample photo opportunities.Then, it was off to the interior of the island. And what do I spy but one of the two most cheekiest birds I have encountered here in New Zealand, the Weka (Stewart Island species). Followed very quickly by the other cheeky species, the Robin (Stewart Island subspecies).
It was going to be a good day. Well worth the water taxi trip out there.I spent all day (well, 9 am to 4 pm) on the island. It was paradise...though a bit cooler than a tropical beach. But very little rain, even some sun, so no complaints! It was fantastic to walk on well trodden tracks that were not muddy, walk along the beaches followed by the Wekas, watch penguins swimming just off shore. Yes, I got to watch them again today. How awesome is this place?
And, I got two of my three target birds for this part of the trip. Yellowhead (the more important of the three to get), and the Brown Creeper. No relation to the North American Brown Creeper. It took a while to get that first look at one. But after I did, I couldn't not see them, or hear them. After the tui and bellbird, they may have been the most abundant bird out there.
Near the end of my time on the island, I got to just sit and watch (well, stand and watch) as a South Island Kaka went to town on the flowers of one of the trees here. It's hard to describe how massive this parrot is. Very vocal too, though this guy was so preoccupied with his flowers he paid me no mind.
I also got fantastic views of the New Zealand Pigeon. It nearly makes up for missing the Wompoo Fruit Dove in Australia. But, as I am well known for saying, I always need an excuse to go back somewhere. This guy was waiting by the dock to bird me farewell. Though I will be seeing plenty more of them over the next few days, I am sure.So, the next stage of the journey remains here on Stewart Island. I get a water taxi tomorrow to take me up to Freshwater Hut. This cuts a full day and half out of walking time, and allows me to have more time to hunt for the 5th item on the to-do list here. Yep, it's Kiwi hunting time (not rifle style, just spotting style). It felt weird to pack my bag today without my tent in it. Since I will be staying in huts, no need. It's amazing how much easier it is to fit everything in it. I have all my foul weather gear too, since I will expect that day 4 will enjoy a very wet and muddy slog. As in, up to my knees mud. I'm looking forward to the adventure! I even spend 2 nights in one camp, to allow me the best opportunity to spy a Kiwi. I am finishing Stewart Island in grand style. I'm already looking forward to my post-adventure feast and beer. Hopefully a celebratory one.
It's hard to believe this adventure is nearing it's end. When I come out (hopefully very happy) on Friday, I will be only 4 days from venturing back to Australia, and 5 days from heading back to New York.
I bid you adieu, for now.
Saturday, January 9, 2010
Yes! Yes! Yes!
I've included a video with the post today. It's only a short one, but I am really glad I saw what I saw.
Some small background. Before coming down to Australia, and then to New Zealand, I set some goals for myself. Minor ones, but here they are:
-Get a photo of the following: Rainbow Lorikeet, Laughing Kookaburra, Fairy Wren, and a Kangaroo.
-See at least 72 new birds, if possible over 100
-See a Satin Bowerbird
-See a Kiwi
-See a Penguin
-See an Albatross
-See a Tuatara, if possible
-Have fun
There is only ONE item left to do on that list. And that is see a Kiwi. And some of you know already, but...
PENGUIN! PENGUIN! PENGUIN! I saw my first penguin today (well, now yesterday, since it is after midnight)!
This tells me I am pretty far south, eh? Man, today and last night were fantastic, in spite of all the rain.
To expand on the post yesterday...I was starting to enjoy the scenery and the scene in Queenstown. But I was really anxious to get out and see some more birds, and Queenstown and areas nearby weren't the place for it, at least not at that time with the weather (snow and cold) bearing down on the alpine environs. So, I got all my bags packed, and headed south, to Invercargill, and from there to Stewart Island. Not before I got to enjoy (and shiver a bit while doing so) the white-capped mountain scenery in Queenstown. I had wondered why a felt a bit chilled when I woke up...
On the way to Invercargill, I enjoyed some scenery. Wrote some postcards while waiting for my ride. Read up on where to go while on Stewart Island. And just imagined what it might be like. I am not in any way disappointed.
From Invercargill to the ferry terminal, I was even able to pick up a new bird for the trip, a Pied Stilt (I saw this on my last trip to New Zealand too, I am fairly sure). I took this as a good sign.
The bay was calm. The weather was clear. Well, it wasn't raining, there was sun and blue sky. Still lots of clouds, though. So, I decided to sit on the back deck of the ferry, to watch for seabirds as we headed to the island. And what a show I had! The seas were a bit higher than I ever imagined they might be; but then, I was in the 'Roaring Forties', which can make some pretty big swells. Perfect weather to admire the Sooty Shearwaters (check) and the Shy Albatrosses (check) show what perfect flying machines they were. Oh, and I was able to spy some Spotted Shags (check) and some Stewart Island Shags (check) sitting on rocks on the way into the bay into Oban, Stewart Island's main port. Population, 400.
I didn't realize how much I was looking forward to this section of the trip till I got here. I mean, I knew I was pumped for here. But I really feel I am finally starting to slow down. Today, I got my plans set for the next week, which includes a wet, muddy 5 day, 4 night tramp through the interior of the island. And I don't have to worry about traveling much anymore. And, since I saw a penguin here, I don't have to worry about seeing them in Dunedin. So Dunedin may just be a place for seabird photography. We shall see.
But today, in spite of the rain, had some exciting times anyway. I took a short walk (about 3 hours) today around my end of the island, to see what I could see. Like, maybe a Stewart Island Weka (check!). And a Kakariki (check!). And, of course, my first, but not last, Little Blue Penguin (check!). I knew the penguins had to be around. I could hear what sounded like soft quacking in the ocean, of which my view was severely obstructed by vegetation. It didn't help I was on a cliff top, and the water, and the birds, were well below me. But, eventually I found my overlook. And I paused, and soaked it in. And did my happy dance.
So, I finally saw a penguin. I still am in disbelief. I did another walk this evening, to head to the point of land where they come ashore to feed their chicks, which were hidden in burrows. I got to watch one penguin just play in the water as the tide came in, much closer than my views I got from the cliff. Wow. I am starting to realize just how well traveled I am getting.
That makes one more bird 'type' I have knocked off my list of type of bird to see. I have yet to see a ratite (flightless bird) in the wild. There are only about 5 types of birds in the ratites now: Kiwi (NZ), Rhea (S. America), Ostrich, Emu, and Cassowary (both Australia). Maybe I will get the Kiwi this week. Even if not, this trip has been a huge success, and I am really happy how it has gone (though I could do with a little less rain).
Keep happy everyone!
Some small background. Before coming down to Australia, and then to New Zealand, I set some goals for myself. Minor ones, but here they are:
-Get a photo of the following: Rainbow Lorikeet, Laughing Kookaburra, Fairy Wren, and a Kangaroo.
-See at least 72 new birds, if possible over 100
-See a Satin Bowerbird
-See a Kiwi
-See a Penguin
-See an Albatross
-See a Tuatara, if possible
-Have fun
There is only ONE item left to do on that list. And that is see a Kiwi. And some of you know already, but...
PENGUIN! PENGUIN! PENGUIN! I saw my first penguin today (well, now yesterday, since it is after midnight)!
This tells me I am pretty far south, eh? Man, today and last night were fantastic, in spite of all the rain.
To expand on the post yesterday...I was starting to enjoy the scenery and the scene in Queenstown. But I was really anxious to get out and see some more birds, and Queenstown and areas nearby weren't the place for it, at least not at that time with the weather (snow and cold) bearing down on the alpine environs. So, I got all my bags packed, and headed south, to Invercargill, and from there to Stewart Island. Not before I got to enjoy (and shiver a bit while doing so) the white-capped mountain scenery in Queenstown. I had wondered why a felt a bit chilled when I woke up...
On the way to Invercargill, I enjoyed some scenery. Wrote some postcards while waiting for my ride. Read up on where to go while on Stewart Island. And just imagined what it might be like. I am not in any way disappointed.
From Invercargill to the ferry terminal, I was even able to pick up a new bird for the trip, a Pied Stilt (I saw this on my last trip to New Zealand too, I am fairly sure). I took this as a good sign.
The bay was calm. The weather was clear. Well, it wasn't raining, there was sun and blue sky. Still lots of clouds, though. So, I decided to sit on the back deck of the ferry, to watch for seabirds as we headed to the island. And what a show I had! The seas were a bit higher than I ever imagined they might be; but then, I was in the 'Roaring Forties', which can make some pretty big swells. Perfect weather to admire the Sooty Shearwaters (check) and the Shy Albatrosses (check) show what perfect flying machines they were. Oh, and I was able to spy some Spotted Shags (check) and some Stewart Island Shags (check) sitting on rocks on the way into the bay into Oban, Stewart Island's main port. Population, 400.
I didn't realize how much I was looking forward to this section of the trip till I got here. I mean, I knew I was pumped for here. But I really feel I am finally starting to slow down. Today, I got my plans set for the next week, which includes a wet, muddy 5 day, 4 night tramp through the interior of the island. And I don't have to worry about traveling much anymore. And, since I saw a penguin here, I don't have to worry about seeing them in Dunedin. So Dunedin may just be a place for seabird photography. We shall see.
But today, in spite of the rain, had some exciting times anyway. I took a short walk (about 3 hours) today around my end of the island, to see what I could see. Like, maybe a Stewart Island Weka (check!). And a Kakariki (check!). And, of course, my first, but not last, Little Blue Penguin (check!). I knew the penguins had to be around. I could hear what sounded like soft quacking in the ocean, of which my view was severely obstructed by vegetation. It didn't help I was on a cliff top, and the water, and the birds, were well below me. But, eventually I found my overlook. And I paused, and soaked it in. And did my happy dance.
So, I finally saw a penguin. I still am in disbelief. I did another walk this evening, to head to the point of land where they come ashore to feed their chicks, which were hidden in burrows. I got to watch one penguin just play in the water as the tide came in, much closer than my views I got from the cliff. Wow. I am starting to realize just how well traveled I am getting.
That makes one more bird 'type' I have knocked off my list of type of bird to see. I have yet to see a ratite (flightless bird) in the wild. There are only about 5 types of birds in the ratites now: Kiwi (NZ), Rhea (S. America), Ostrich, Emu, and Cassowary (both Australia). Maybe I will get the Kiwi this week. Even if not, this trip has been a huge success, and I am really happy how it has gone (though I could do with a little less rain).
Keep happy everyone!
Friday, January 8, 2010
Seabirds, see birds, seas, and summer snow
This will be quick. I don't have much time.
My trip to Stewart from Queenstown has gone well. More than well. It was snowing in the high elevations last night in queenstown. I'm glad I decided to forgo the tramp into the bush line, and come to stewart early. I don't mind winter camping...but I wanted to see some new birds.
And new birds I have seen! The seas were a bit rough (to put it mildly) on the crossing to Stewart Island (about 5-10 meter sees, I would guess). But this means good for sea birds! Shy Albatrosses. Sooty Shearwaters. Blue Skies. Ahhh....I like the ocean, even if it tries to make the stomach do sumersaults (no, I didn't get sick).
The next couple of days should be a blast. I got at least 2 new birds today: Shy Albatross and Spotted Shag. I don't know if I will make it to Ulva Island tomorrow. But the weather has finally seemed to turn the corner for the better for me.
I will post more in the next day or two. But I am trying to keep on my new year's resolution to write more.
Wednesday, January 6, 2010
Tuis, Tuataras, 1.200, and more...
Ahhh...here it is folks. The much awaited first blog of 2010. Apologies for not getting anything up sooner. It has been a busy couple of weeks in New Zealand. But, in spite of the adrenaline charged town of Queenstown [arguably the adrenaline capital of the world: bungee jumping, parasailing, hang gliding, sky diving, jet boat rides, white water trips, and more on the offer here], I have found a way to slow myself down. And I have cheap computer time, nobody breathing down my neck, and dinner hour not quite close enough yet. All in all, plenty of time to finally get a post up, so you all can find out just what has been happening down here.
So, grab your beverage of choice, preferably a NZ or Aussie beer (but Guinness is fine, too). Put on some listening music (Miles Davis is my choice here right now, but you know, whatever yanks your chain). Sit back, relax, and read (and maybe gaze at some photos).
And for starters: no, I have not seen any hobbits, orcs, ents, elves, dwarves, or any other middle earth beings.
So, the final day in Brisbane (well, temporarily, anyway, I fly home from there) went well. Picnic in the park on Christmas eve was a very nice way to spend an afternoon. Followed by drinks in the bar. It was nice and quiet and composed. The next day, it was a sad goodbye, and I got my passport stamped yet again, and arrived in New Zealand.
Christmas was a wash. No stores open. Wellington is a nice capital city, I found. On the 26th, I took off on a day trip to Karori Wildlife Sanctuary. New Zealand originally had no native mammals (aside from bats), and as such many of their native birds and reptiles evolved with no terrestrial predators. Karori has tried to recreate that, by designing a full predator exclosure fence in the middle of the city. No cats, no possums, no rats. All the animals inside the exclosure are free roaming, wild animals.
After my Scuba experience on the great barrier reef in 1998, this is the second coolest thing I have done/seen. The native birds seem to have no (significant) fear of man...many came up right close to me. And some just blew my mind. Tuis flying right by my head. Falcons chasing songbirds around. Ducks looking for food. And the Tuataras (that's a type of ancient reptile) just hanging out, doing their thing.
Needless to say, I focused on the bird life. Coming into New Zealand, if my calculations were correct, I was at 1.994 birds for the world. Karori gave me much more than I expected. The pied shag (Karuhiruhi), pictured above. New Zealand Pigeon. Gray Warbler (or Gergone). Shining Cuckoo. New Zealand Scaup (number 1.199). Photo below (for my non-bird friends, a scaup is a type of duck).
But I wasn't nearly done yet. I eventually left the water areas, and began walking in the woods. I didn't have to do much searching. The birds came to me. Here it is folks (and I am happy it was a native NZ bird, not an introduced species):
That, my friends, is the New Zealand Saddleback, or Tieke. Bird number 1.200 for the world! A fantastic find! And I'm happy I got his photo (not until today did I know exactly which bird was 1.200). But Karori didn't stop there! Nope, the North Island Kaka helped grow the list more. As well as the North Island Robin. The Hihi. The Bellbird. The New Zealand Falcon. The New Zealand Fantail. Yep, all this was well worth it. I spent all day there, till the gates closed. Boy, was I happy!
And thus began the days of transportation, and rain...
From Wellington (North Island of New Zealand), I stocked up on some camping supplies (like stove fuel), and then headed south. A 3 hour ferry ride later, I landed in Picton and spent the night. From there, it was a 3 hour drive (shuttle) to Nelson Lakes/St Arnaud.
I altered my plans a little bit, and decided that since St. Arnaud was such a small town...I would camp out for the New Year, and hike out on New Years day. Good decision on my part! Day one of my hike had a bit of rain...to put it mildly. And lots of mud. LOTS of mud. And lots of wet stream crossings, which conveniently washed off the mud. My rain gear got wet, while I did not...so that was nice.
The tramp was a good way to force myself to slow down. I saw rain, and hail. I did have to wear my winter woolies too...it got cold in there! But, being so far south, I had lots of daylight for hiking...when I finally laid down on New Years eve, it was somewhat light out at 10 pm!
The last new bird for 2009 was the Rifleman. Not only that, but I think that was the last bird I saw, too. Just a small little guy, but a real charmer. Kind of like a nuthatch at home, personality wise. My camp was very nice, in a perfect setting.
So, 2009 started the year in Costa Rica, and it was the year of the Rufous Piha (first bird I saw). The year began with me shy of my 1.100th bird. It ended on the rifleman, over a hundred new birds later (I did not expect to pass 1.200 in 2009).
2010 is the year of the New Zealand South Island Tomtit (think Chickadee like). Boy, that bird is a mouthful! But a real personality...hopefully a good omen for the new year.
Well, after day one, the rain for the most part stayed away, and the skies stayed clear. Some fantastic views of the Southern Alps were had. As well as great views of waterfall, after waterfall, after waterfall...they are beyond counting. I saw snow (on the ground, not falling). And lots of gorgeous scenery. And a loooonnnnggg walk out. With countless stream crossings (seriously, I didn't count...I figured after the 20th time, I really didn't want to know!).
So, in short, Nelson lakes was a great way to start the new year! I am very glad my friend down here recommended it as a place to go. It got me a few new birds too: Tomtit, Rifleman, black swan (introduced), and the 'infamous' kea. If you don't know what these are, there are the most curious parrot you'd ever meet. They are known to destroy vehicles, grabbing at the rubber edging, wires, you name it. We had one come to the hut the first night.
The best part of the trip though, was perhaps the South Island Robin. For sheer cheekiness! I took a break one day to have my lunch (peanut butter and crackers), and was sitting down near the trail. A couple of the robins came by to say hi. And eventually hopped right on my foot. And my knee. And poked at my bag of food. And then chased each other around and UNDER my legs.
I think I have an idea of what the galapagos might be like...
Well, from there, it was a night in St. Arnaud, and the traditional post-tramp gorge. Beer and chocolate (and yes, I had a main course in between that!). Then, the beginning of travels.
And lots of rain. Lots and lots of rain. I'm used to it (from Ecuador, Costa Rica, Hawaii...). But I'm on vacation here! It wouldn't be so bad, except it was pouring, so even birding was out. And short hikes too...what's the point when you can't see the grand views? But, I did put the day off to good use...I rested.
So, I have wound my way along the west coast. Took in some glacier sites at Fox Glacier. Even got a new bird out of it: South Island Pied Oystercatcher. Then continued on here to adrenaline charged queenstown.
Which brings us up to date. The next main part of the trip should be lots of fun: Stewart Island! More my style for personal time: isolated island. No non-native predators. Kiwis, Penguins, Albatrosses. And hopefully ample photo opportunities. Another tramp. And a lot fewer people too! I'm getting there earlier than I planned, but I like it that way. I won't feel so constrained for time on the island.
The bird list, since Karori, has still grown. Aside from the above mentioned Oystercatcher, I have also seen the Kotuku (white heron), and a few other birds here and there.
Well, my computer here didn't seem to like my other memory card. So, no other pictures to include at the moment. But rest assured, I am happy, well fed, well rested. And I am spending less on certain things than expected (food), but more on others (transport)...so, for the most part, I'm doing ok. I can't wait for my tramp on Stewart! I don't hold out high hopes for the kiwi...but man, with the sun up at 6 am, and down at 10 pm...those guys will have to come out during the day to feed on Stewart. Keep your fingers crossed.
Well, belated Merry Christmas everyone. Belated Happy New Year, too. Hopefully, everyone is healthy again when I get home (stop getting sick, people!). I will end this with an update on my New Years resolutions (well, some, anyway):
-get a permanent, full time job. Somewhere (hopefully guiding)
-see my 1.300th life bird
-see my 450th bird in the US, including my first Snowy Owl
-go someplace new
-get out more!
-see my friends more (it would help if they weren't all over the place, but what can you do?)
-write in my blog more
-write in my journal more
-get a weeklong plus tramp/backpack in (maybe Adirondacks?)
-see family more
Okay, I bid you all a good day (or evening). I will hopefull get another post up within a week...it will depend on what I do on Stewart in what order (a three night tramp is scheduled).
So, grab your beverage of choice, preferably a NZ or Aussie beer (but Guinness is fine, too). Put on some listening music (Miles Davis is my choice here right now, but you know, whatever yanks your chain). Sit back, relax, and read (and maybe gaze at some photos).
And for starters: no, I have not seen any hobbits, orcs, ents, elves, dwarves, or any other middle earth beings.
So, the final day in Brisbane (well, temporarily, anyway, I fly home from there) went well. Picnic in the park on Christmas eve was a very nice way to spend an afternoon. Followed by drinks in the bar. It was nice and quiet and composed. The next day, it was a sad goodbye, and I got my passport stamped yet again, and arrived in New Zealand.
Christmas was a wash. No stores open. Wellington is a nice capital city, I found. On the 26th, I took off on a day trip to Karori Wildlife Sanctuary. New Zealand originally had no native mammals (aside from bats), and as such many of their native birds and reptiles evolved with no terrestrial predators. Karori has tried to recreate that, by designing a full predator exclosure fence in the middle of the city. No cats, no possums, no rats. All the animals inside the exclosure are free roaming, wild animals.
After my Scuba experience on the great barrier reef in 1998, this is the second coolest thing I have done/seen. The native birds seem to have no (significant) fear of man...many came up right close to me. And some just blew my mind. Tuis flying right by my head. Falcons chasing songbirds around. Ducks looking for food. And the Tuataras (that's a type of ancient reptile) just hanging out, doing their thing.Needless to say, I focused on the bird life. Coming into New Zealand, if my calculations were correct, I was at 1.994 birds for the world. Karori gave me much more than I expected. The pied shag (Karuhiruhi), pictured above. New Zealand Pigeon. Gray Warbler (or Gergone). Shining Cuckoo. New Zealand Scaup (number 1.199). Photo below (for my non-bird friends, a scaup is a type of duck).
But I wasn't nearly done yet. I eventually left the water areas, and began walking in the woods. I didn't have to do much searching. The birds came to me. Here it is folks (and I am happy it was a native NZ bird, not an introduced species):
That, my friends, is the New Zealand Saddleback, or Tieke. Bird number 1.200 for the world! A fantastic find! And I'm happy I got his photo (not until today did I know exactly which bird was 1.200). But Karori didn't stop there! Nope, the North Island Kaka helped grow the list more. As well as the North Island Robin. The Hihi. The Bellbird. The New Zealand Falcon. The New Zealand Fantail. Yep, all this was well worth it. I spent all day there, till the gates closed. Boy, was I happy!And thus began the days of transportation, and rain...
From Wellington (North Island of New Zealand), I stocked up on some camping supplies (like stove fuel), and then headed south. A 3 hour ferry ride later, I landed in Picton and spent the night. From there, it was a 3 hour drive (shuttle) to Nelson Lakes/St Arnaud.
I altered my plans a little bit, and decided that since St. Arnaud was such a small town...I would camp out for the New Year, and hike out on New Years day. Good decision on my part! Day one of my hike had a bit of rain...to put it mildly. And lots of mud. LOTS of mud. And lots of wet stream crossings, which conveniently washed off the mud. My rain gear got wet, while I did not...so that was nice.
The tramp was a good way to force myself to slow down. I saw rain, and hail. I did have to wear my winter woolies too...it got cold in there! But, being so far south, I had lots of daylight for hiking...when I finally laid down on New Years eve, it was somewhat light out at 10 pm!
The last new bird for 2009 was the Rifleman. Not only that, but I think that was the last bird I saw, too. Just a small little guy, but a real charmer. Kind of like a nuthatch at home, personality wise. My camp was very nice, in a perfect setting.
So, 2009 started the year in Costa Rica, and it was the year of the Rufous Piha (first bird I saw). The year began with me shy of my 1.100th bird. It ended on the rifleman, over a hundred new birds later (I did not expect to pass 1.200 in 2009).
2010 is the year of the New Zealand South Island Tomtit (think Chickadee like). Boy, that bird is a mouthful! But a real personality...hopefully a good omen for the new year.
Well, after day one, the rain for the most part stayed away, and the skies stayed clear. Some fantastic views of the Southern Alps were had. As well as great views of waterfall, after waterfall, after waterfall...they are beyond counting. I saw snow (on the ground, not falling). And lots of gorgeous scenery. And a loooonnnnggg walk out. With countless stream crossings (seriously, I didn't count...I figured after the 20th time, I really didn't want to know!).
So, in short, Nelson lakes was a great way to start the new year! I am very glad my friend down here recommended it as a place to go. It got me a few new birds too: Tomtit, Rifleman, black swan (introduced), and the 'infamous' kea. If you don't know what these are, there are the most curious parrot you'd ever meet. They are known to destroy vehicles, grabbing at the rubber edging, wires, you name it. We had one come to the hut the first night.
The best part of the trip though, was perhaps the South Island Robin. For sheer cheekiness! I took a break one day to have my lunch (peanut butter and crackers), and was sitting down near the trail. A couple of the robins came by to say hi. And eventually hopped right on my foot. And my knee. And poked at my bag of food. And then chased each other around and UNDER my legs.
I think I have an idea of what the galapagos might be like...
Well, from there, it was a night in St. Arnaud, and the traditional post-tramp gorge. Beer and chocolate (and yes, I had a main course in between that!). Then, the beginning of travels.
And lots of rain. Lots and lots of rain. I'm used to it (from Ecuador, Costa Rica, Hawaii...). But I'm on vacation here! It wouldn't be so bad, except it was pouring, so even birding was out. And short hikes too...what's the point when you can't see the grand views? But, I did put the day off to good use...I rested.
So, I have wound my way along the west coast. Took in some glacier sites at Fox Glacier. Even got a new bird out of it: South Island Pied Oystercatcher. Then continued on here to adrenaline charged queenstown.
Which brings us up to date. The next main part of the trip should be lots of fun: Stewart Island! More my style for personal time: isolated island. No non-native predators. Kiwis, Penguins, Albatrosses. And hopefully ample photo opportunities. Another tramp. And a lot fewer people too! I'm getting there earlier than I planned, but I like it that way. I won't feel so constrained for time on the island.
The bird list, since Karori, has still grown. Aside from the above mentioned Oystercatcher, I have also seen the Kotuku (white heron), and a few other birds here and there.
Well, my computer here didn't seem to like my other memory card. So, no other pictures to include at the moment. But rest assured, I am happy, well fed, well rested. And I am spending less on certain things than expected (food), but more on others (transport)...so, for the most part, I'm doing ok. I can't wait for my tramp on Stewart! I don't hold out high hopes for the kiwi...but man, with the sun up at 6 am, and down at 10 pm...those guys will have to come out during the day to feed on Stewart. Keep your fingers crossed.
Well, belated Merry Christmas everyone. Belated Happy New Year, too. Hopefully, everyone is healthy again when I get home (stop getting sick, people!). I will end this with an update on my New Years resolutions (well, some, anyway):
-get a permanent, full time job. Somewhere (hopefully guiding)
-see my 1.300th life bird
-see my 450th bird in the US, including my first Snowy Owl
-go someplace new
-get out more!
-see my friends more (it would help if they weren't all over the place, but what can you do?)
-write in my blog more
-write in my journal more
-get a weeklong plus tramp/backpack in (maybe Adirondacks?)
-see family more
Okay, I bid you all a good day (or evening). I will hopefull get another post up within a week...it will depend on what I do on Stewart in what order (a three night tramp is scheduled).
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