Xiphorhynchus obsoletus

[Morning on the Rio Nanay, near the community of San Martin]

I will try to make sure I label the blog pictures from now on. [and videos, when applicable].

So, on 18 October 2010, the crew of six headed on our first boat ride to one of our field sites. First, it was a short (1 hour) autobus ride, fully loaded with us and gear (including the roof!) to the port of Bujurci, where we transferred us, and our gear, to the pekepeke (pronounced peKApeKa), the type of boat used on the Rio Nanay. Pretty much, think of a canoe with a motor (the pekepeke is the sound the engine makes). Shallow draft. But the roof is useful to keep the sun, and ever threatening rain, off one's head. And thus, we headed up river.

The Rio Nanay is a tributary of the Amazon. Our areas are north of the Amazon River - the Amazon River is actually more east of us here than south, but for biogeographic purposes (ranges of animal species) we are "north" of the Amazon. A short distance downriver from us, the Nanay enters the Amazon. From that junction, going upriver the Amazon is Nauta, where the Maranon joins the Ucayali to form the Amazon river. It is hard to describe in words, but if you find a geographic map of Peru, you can determine what I mean.

We journey up the Nanay. No matter the height of the river, it's speed is pretty consistent, slow, since the elevation gradient from here to the ocean is very gentle. We are about 2.000 river kilometers from the Atlantic ocean, and our elevation is only about 400 meters. So, the pekepeke doesn't have to fight a strong current, but there is a current. We travel by boat about an hour and half up river, taking some much needed rest along the way (it was a busy weekend in Iquitos).
[photo courtesy of Maru Lacoretz. I'm on the left, Lillia on the right, and Judit, my boss, is the legs you see in front of Lillia. That's most of our gear between us all. The roof is interwoven palm fronds].

After an hour and half, we arrive at the "port" for San Martin. The port is a sand beach. We muddily unload ourselves and our gear, arrange for the return ride in 12 days time (and one days time for two of our crew), and say goodbye to our outside contact. Then, most of us wait on the beach and in the shade while the boss and our Peruvian crew go to the community (a 15 minute walk) to introduce ourselves and arrange our stay and living conditions.

So, we had some time to pass. Gazing over the river is nice. For me, I really enjoy looking over the river and forest, and thinking of all the animals and critters there, and really how small we are in this grand world (and universe, for that matter).

When we first disembarked, I heard a hawk over our head. And after we made arrangements and relaxed a little, I saw the hawk. Near our head was an adult Black-collared Hawk, a common bird at river edge forest. It had a young bird nearby, that was persistently begging. Bird number 1.296!

Bird number 1.297 was more awesome - though I think all birds are awesome (well, maybe excepting house sparrows, rock doves, and starlings, but I digress). After gazing at the hawk, I noticed a black bird, quietly calling, about 100m away up a dried quebrada (stream). Using the binoculars, I notice there is no white in the face, and the bill is red, and the entire bird is a dark blue, almost black. Black-fronted Nunbird! WOO HOO!

So, San Martin was already a great place for me. I felt I could relax - that new birds would come to me there. I had no idea....

After watching the Nunbird for a while, I returned to the beach, to gaze over the river and rest (as I said, the weekend was busy, plus the sun was pretty intense). Then Suzanna, the other Peruvian, called me over to some birds calling by the forest (plus, I had my binoculars; she hadn't brought hers since she was returning to Iquitos the next day).

On the ground was a very drab bird, acting and looking like a flycatcher. There were two adults and couple of youngsters, making lots of noise. Later identification confirmed these as Drab Water-tyrants. A drab bird with a drab name - how appropriate. Bird number 1.298!

And more noise was heard. A consistent "turl turl turl url url url url urlurlee'ee". Eventually, the bird popped into view. Black-crested Antshrike! Bird number 1.299! I'm becoming quite fond of the various antbird groups.

At this point, I KNEW that I had seen new birds. I didn't have my field guide on me (it was buried in my one bag). I also had seen a small flycatcher-like bird in the tree (later identified as Spotted Tody-flycatcher) that I thought was new, but wasn't (I saw it about 3 weeks prior in the garden at the hostel). Then, we spied a woodcreeper.

Woodcreepers are difficult to identify. They are brown birds, with various forms of spots and streaks (and sometimes bars) on the back, head, and chest. Or lack them. They are similar to woodpeckers, and spend most of their time on tree trunks and limbs. Meaning it is hard to see field marks on the front of the bird. From my experiences in the tropics, I knew what to look for. First, I noticed the fairly straight, thickish, and shortish, creamy colored bill. Since I saw that, I took note of the birds relative size, and confirmed shape of the bill (I knew there were only two birds I had to choose from). When I could, I looked at the chin.

I did not know it at the time that it was number 1.300. I didn't even know for sure that the bird was new (as I said, I didn't have the guide handy).

But the next bird helped me know I was there. Cause I wasn't finished with new birds in this little spot! We had heard a wren sporadically sing here and there in that area, so I was anxious to see it show itself. And eventually, it did. Very well, in fact, for a brief (but intensive scrutinizing) 5 seconds. I guess I really know what to look for in identifying certain birds down here; I was able to keep images of all these birds in my head! Bars on wings. Striping in the head. Small. Buff underneath. Buff-breasted Wren!

So, at this point, I KNEW I had to have gotten 1.300 (the woodcreeper was the only 'not sure if it's new' species). So yeah, I did a little bird dance (it will be filmed tonight at the bar - I am keeping to my word of buying a round of beer for the crew).

When we got to the community and settled in a little, I pulled out my guidebook and checked on all the birds we saw. Bird number 1.300 turned out to be Xiphorhynchus obsoletus, the Striped Woodcreeper.

That was a good day. A very good day. I felt relieved that I finally passed 1.300 (a goal of mine, and actually also a New Year's resolution that was phrased as being 'if given the opportunity').

But San Martin decided to procure even more gifts for me, along the line of new birds. And photo opportunities. And of exciting things.

This site was the most diverse, and had the highest quantity of captures, of birds so far this season. All this with the smallest crew - four - of the season. It was great! I got to see Ringed Antpipit in the hand, along with Allpahuayo Antbird (endemic to our habitat), Zimmer's Antbird, Yellow-browed Antbird (quite colorful for an antbird), and Black-faced Antbird. But the highlight of our captures?
We caught a toucanet! The Golden-collared Toucanet! What a catch!

I don't count captured birds in my life list, but in the listing phase, I was not disappointed. I saw another species of hummingbird (Gray-breasted Sabrewing) when we discovered a nest of one next to the trail. I saw my first cotinga of the area on afternoon when walking home, the Plum-throated Cotinga. I saw my second COUNTABLE toucan of the season, when I saw the Many-banded Aracari in the trees on morning on the way to work. But for spectacular looking birds, nothing quite beat the Paradise Tanager: gold head, purple throat, light blue belly, black wings, red rump, black tail. It's like you give a kid a picture of a bird and tell him/her to color it how they want!

San Martin was very productive. It even felt almost cozy, with only the four of us there after the first night. We had adventurous stream crossings (sometimes boot free, sometimes over a log), an all day rainstorm, volleyball games, stream playing, lots of fresh fish, lots of birds, various nests found, and only mild illness (probably just sheer exhaustion, but who knows).

And the day we left rounded off the trip for me beautifully. While waiting for the boat, I saw a Capped Heron while taking a trip to water the bushes. A perfect end to the trip. So my list now stands at 1.311 species. And I already wonder - what will the next trip bring (aside from even MORE gear in the pekepeke. We have added 3 more people to our crew!).

Please see my flickr page for more photos I took.

A Listing History...

Australian King Parrot (so, obviously, not a Peruvian bird. Which will be understood in a moment).

Numbers 1 to 100 [Prior to 1997]

I was only a casual birder, but the 'listing bug' was there. Most of the birds were the common ones seen at a backyard feeder, including my favorite bird the Northern Cardinal, as well as Black-capped Chickadee, American Robin, and Mourning Dove. I do recall seeing an Baltimore Oriole sometime when I was young, as well as an American Goldfinch. When I was in college, the 'bug' was born. I was introduced to birds I had seen but never knew the name of: White-throated Sparrow, Downy Woodpecker, White-breasted Nuthatch. I was also introduced to birds I had never heard of: Black-billed Magpie (a trip to Colorado), American Coot, and Horned Grebe.

100 to 200 [1997]

Already in this stage I began my international listing, during my first field job and the work we did on the Mexican Plateau in 1997. During the road trip from Colorado to there, I also got new birds. Many, in fact. In the US, I got Spotted Sandpiper, Western Screech Owl, Sandhill Cranes, and numerous duck species. In Mexico, the highlights for me were Greater Roadrunner, Aplomado Falcon, and 5-Striped Sparrow (the first bird I ever saw not found in the US [I may have the name wrong]).

200 to 300 [1997 - 1998]

My list continued to grow in the US, working that same first field job, only this time in the Middle Park area of Colorado. Sagebrush dominant habitat, but I also had opportunities to go to Rocky Mountain National Park, and Colorado National Monument. Even now, I can recall so many of the situations around certain birds, like the Pine Grosbeak in Rocky Mountain National Park, Flammulated and Boreal Owls in Colorado National Monument, and Sage Thrashers in the sagebrush in our work sites. As well as the flamboyantly colored Western Tanager, the first really colorful bird I ever saw. I also still rounded out my list in New York, while going to college. I was already refining my bird skills when I could. I also began to grow the list internationally again, across the pacific ocean, in Australia.

300 to 400 [1998]

Australia dominates this portion. My first trip there, if I recollect correctly, I saw 135 new species of birds. Including my first parrots (oodles of parrots). The bird life was so different there, it was AWESOME. I was so happy I "broke the bank" and went on that trip. I really began to learn what the world had to offer. My highlight of Australia at this point? Was, and will always will be, Rainbow Lorikeets, Kookaburras, and Fairy-wrens.

400 to 500 [1998-2000]

Australia numbers continued to be added, including some from the Great Barrier Reef! I saw my first birds I consider true "sea birds", the Brown Booby and Australasian Gannet. I added more birds from another country as well: New Zealand. Though I was only there for a few days, I saw a few native birds, including my e-mail tag line bird the New Zealand Dotterel, and the Tui. As well as numerous introduced species from Europe. After a short time in New York adding a few birds here and there, I headed to another field season in Iowa. Followed by Mississippi.

And added oodles of birds again, since I had birded in the East, and birded in the western mountains, but not in the great plains. So, grassland birds galore, like Upland Sandpiper, Common Yellowthroat, Grasshopper Sparrow, and American Woodcock, among others. Mississippi gave me an endangered bird (Red-cockaded Woodpecker), as well as some southern specialties, like Brown-headed Nuthatch. And I took some coastal trips to admire migrants, where I added many waders like Reddish Egret and Tricolored Heron, and shorebirds like Black-necked Stilt.

400 to 500 [2000-2003]

My numbers slowed down somewhat, as I remained in the US. But where I went helped add little clusters of numbers here and there. I worked in California, in the Sierra Nevada, where I added numerous far western birds, including the Yellow-billed Magpie, a species only found in California. Other birds during my time there included the Hermit Warbler, Hermit Thrush, Swainson's Thrush, Townsend's Solitaire, and Lazuli Bunting. Another field job in Texas added numerous birds, as I discovered migrants passing through during my work on the special birds of the Edwards Plateau: the Golden-cheeked Warbler and Black-capped Vireo. Magnolia Warbler, Ovenbird, and Cuckoos were among my highlights there. But the Scissor-tail Flycatchers will REALLY stick in my mind, for their gaudily long tails.

500 to 600 [2004-2006]

I took my first job in the eastern United States, and I was well rewarded. Wood-warblers galore! Northern Parula, Golden-winged Warbler, Hooded Warbler, Kentucky Warbler, and more. Whip-poor-wills (though I never got a good luck till years later in Missouri). Chimney Swifts. All the birds I had been "missing" since I hadn't been in the east actively birding, well, ever. I also achieved species number 300 while working in TN. I knew at this point my numbers in the US would slow down a little.

I returned to California again for a couple of field seasons, as well as to Texas as well. I added a few scattered birds here and there while working, but a big jump occurred with my first neotropical experience (kind of) with a weekend trip to south Texas. 2 days, 35 birds, but it was the species of birds that really blew my mind. Two additional kingfisher species, a couple of kingbird species, the Altamira Oriole, Great Kiskadee, Least Grebe, and that gaudy of gaudy birds (for the US), the Green Jay.

600 to 700 [2007 - also known as the year the addiction begins to take serious hold]

And now, the list grows fast! I rounded out my numbers on the mainland US a bit, when I wrapped up 2006 in Louisiana on a very brief field job (but which provided contacts for more jobs with many more new birds in the Pacific Northwest and Australia). Then, I traveled over an ocean in March of 2007, to Hawaii. And got some fantastic and wild looking native Hawaiian birds. Just the names are wild. Puaiohi. Apapane. I'iwi. Elepaio. Nene. Akikiki. Akeke'e. And some non-native birds from there as well.

And then - my first truly neotropical experience, where I realized what I had been missing. August of 2007 found me on a plane to Ecuador, to work in a cloud forest on a species only known for 10 years, and whose numbers were in the double digits. So, not only did I see the Jocotoco Antpitta, but also the Shining Puffleg, Amethyst-throated and Flame-throated Sunangels, Long-tailed Sylph, other Antpittas, and tanagers galore. I was in bird heaven, as a friend described.

700 to 800 [2007]

I remained in bird heaven in Ecuador. Ecuador gave me nearly 210 species for the country, nearly all of them new. I added birds from Paramo (high altitude habitat), and low-elevation cloudforest as well. Lots of new world flycatchers. Lots of hummingbirds. And birds in other groups I had only read about to that point: Antbirds, antshrikes, antwrens, spinetails, woodcreepers, thistletails, and more. As I said, I was in bird heaven.

800 to 900 [2007-2008]

I got my 400th US life bird in this stage, and continued to add international birds. I worked in Tennessee for a while, adding numerous waterfowl species I hadn't seen. Then I worked in the Pacific Northwest, a job I got through my contacts in Louisiana. I was able to add some boreal birds, that were spending the winter in that area.

And then, since I had some free time, I took a birding pleasure trip to Costa Rica. I was not disappointed. Amazing to me now is how quickly that trip came together for me. I added fewer new birds than I expected, but I did not travel as much, and instead birded the heck out of the few areas I visited. My highlights here? The first bird I saw in country was the Resplendant Quetzal (and wow, what a bird!). As well as the Orange-bellied Trogon. Silky-flycatchers. Volcano Hummingbird. Scarlet Macaw (second favorite bird ever!). I was happy.

900 to 1000 [2008-2009]

I returned stateside for a brief field season during migration in the desert southwest. I was now into the "specialized habitat" of my US list. So part of the reason I took that field job was the opportunity to see new species. Verdin, Abert's Towhee, Costa's Hummingbird were the highlights there, as well as the Scott's Oriole.

Then, I returned to Costa Rica, and got to work in an area I hadn't visited, and stay there for a good length of time. Not only did I add numerous species at my work site (like Stripe-headed Sparrow, Black-bellied Trogon, and various hummingbird species), I took some trips to other areas in the country when I was done, to check out birds there. Like Bare-throated Tiger Heron. Jabiru. Saltators. Hummingbirds (again!). I was still happy.

And these two trips provided me with the opportunity to nail number 1.000 for the world. Something I could not believe had happened, and made me realize I really was getting serious about this. I was able to procure an opportunity to work as a guide in Costa Rica, on the Osa Peninsula, in "the most biodiverse region on the planet" [National Geographic's words]. I added oodles of species in the first few days, like White Hawk, White-tipped Sicklebill, Band-tailed Barbthroat, Black-cheeded Ant-tanager, Yellow-billed Cotinga, Turquise Cotinga, and Red-capped and Orange-crowned Mannakins, and Laughing Falcon.

1000 to 1100 [2008-2009]

I was still in Costa Rica! And went through birds like mad. I got number 1100 during a personal trip to Rara Avis in Costa Rica, but not until after a short side trip to Panama. Panama didn't give me many, but I did get a few there. Every bird counts, no matter where I see it.

Green-fronted Lancebill. Black-throated Trogon. Baird's Trogon. Black-faced Antthrush. So many birds, so many.

1100 to 1200 [2009]

And the dividends of numerous field jobs and my contacts pay off. After rounding out a few birds in Missouri in May, June, July, and August, I went to Maine for 2 months. Not many new birds, but those I got, were great! Common Eider. Black Guillemot. Parasitic Jaeger. Wilson's Storm Petrel.

And then...my other Louisiana contact had me come to Australia. And I continued to add numbers, and the dance to when I saw a new bird. Variegated Fairy Wren. Buff-banded Rail. Pacific Baza. Did I mention how much I love bird names?

And then...I knew EXACTLY where I was...and I went to New Zealand. Where, on "Boxing Day", December 26th, I got species number 1200 in a wildlife sanctuary. The Kaka, a type of Parrot. Other species that day were the Stitchbird (Hihi), New Zealand Scaup, New Zealand Falcon, and Paradise Shelduck, among others.

1200 to 1231 [2009 to 2010]

New Zealand is not very diverse, currently, for bird life. But those I saw were fantastic. My last new bird of 2009 was the Tomtit (or the Brown Creeper, I can't fully recall). During the end of my trip to New Zealand, I got my first flightless birds: PENGUINS! Two species, as a matter of fact. And I added the complete opposite of flightless, masters of flight, in two Albatross species.

And then I headed back stateside. And worked in Wyoming. Where I added to my US list, and my world list, with American Three-toed Woodpecker, Red-necked Phalarope, Clay-colored Sparrow, and Harris's Sparrow.

And then, in August, I came to Peru. And as diverse as a rainforest is, it is actually hard to find, and see, the birds down here. So I slowwwwly added birds one by one (and sometimes two or three). Stipple-throated Antwren. Saffron-crested Pygmy Tyrant. Long-tailed Hermit. Fork-tailed Woodnymph. White-tailed (or Green-backed) Trogon. And we come to 19 October, 2010, and the day we arrived in San Martin, with my list at 1.295.

Time is a flyin' by...

Pun intended.

For whatever reason, I felt October was going to feel like a long month. For better or worse, it hasn't felt that way at all. The past 10 day trip seemed to fly by! I think it has to do with the reduced crew size - we each have to do a little bit more. We have had to walk just a little further than before. We have caught just a few more birds than before as well, it seems. It occurred to me that today I have only a mere two months left before I "have" to head back stateside.

First, for those interested in the list count. I had a minor let down this past trip when checking my list totals. Due to the vagaries of how I wrote down my bird lists here, I was farther away than I thought on how many new birds I had to see to get to 1.300. As it stands now, I am 5 away. The last new bird was a Pearly Antshrike, that I saw while taking her mate out of the net.

I'm not worried about getting to 1.300. There is plenty of time left, and I also know that sometime soon, I will be spending more time able to bird watch than I have been. During the best times right now (from 5:30 to about 7:00 am), we are very busy on the banding station, taking birds out of nets and taking data on the birds. Normally it is around 9 AM or so by the time things slow down enough we can all take some drinks of water, eat some food, and take a breath. Which is fine by me. We have been catching a wonderful variety of birds.

Including some friends from North America! We caught our first migrants this past trip, and the only species we can reasonably expect to catch (other migrants may be present, but they would be canopy birds, where we don't have nets). We have caught both Swainson's and Gray-cheeked Thrushes. The latter is a good catch - it is the first time that bird has been caught on this project. So, I guess fall and winter really are arriving for home.

Another new bird we caught was the Buff-rumped Warbler. Related to the migratory warblers I know back home, but this one is non-migratory, and stays in the rainforest year round. When I took the bird out of the net, I knew right away the bird looked familiar. But, since it was the first time we had caught one, we double checked it against other birds in the field guide. But my experience with birds was such that everything about the bird screamed "warbler" at me.

Another highlight? A Roadside Hawk (Buteo magnirostris)! We hear them with some frequency in our netting areas, but to catch one is somewhat unusual. I have handled smaller raptors before (Accipiter striatus, or Sharp-shinned Hawk) from nets, but this was another size up entirely - I am glad it was my boss who took the bird out (and she has some wounds to prove it).

We especially admired the Golden-tailed Sapphire (hummingbird) as well, and I am so disappointed that it escaped (what do you expect from holding a bird 3 inches long?) before we were able to get its picture. This, again, was a first capture for the project - it is a bird that spends more time in the canopy than down low.

And we are still getting oodles of antbirds, and though I saw my first army ant swarm this past trip, it was not as good for bird variety as ones I have seen in the past. I am patient though - I know sooner or later I will see an awesome flock, and be going crazy with new birds! I still haven't gotten Pithys albifrons (White-plumed Antbird), which is weird because it may be the third most common species we catch!

And in other good/not as good news: the rains have returned! We are back into the rainy season now, and we have seen more rain in the past 4 days than the previous month I was here. Which is good for bird activity. And helping the days stay a little more cooler. But is not good for mosquito activity - I have yet to apply bug dope, but that may change now that the rains have come. I will say I am suffering the least (heck, I'm barely suffering!) from bug bites and the like. Very few mosquito bites. Little to no chiggers. No "awful pox," as we call it. I have been attacked by a few horseflies (annoying buggers), sweat bees (I'm fine as long as they don't bite), and wasps (hurts like the dickens for about 5 minutes). But I knew I would get that coming down here. So, it's all part of the tropical experience.

What do I expect from the next part of the trip? It's always hard to say in the tropics. We head up river tomorrow - so there may be some different birds to see during the trip. This trip is a little longer than before (12 days), but when we return, our crew will grow in size again. And I really really hope to be over 1.300 by the end of this trip. Every trip brings some surprises; I can't wait to see what they will be this time!

This wonderful life

[Photo courtesy of Jamie Miller, 2nd from the right]

There are so many things I could talk about regarding this past trip, I don't know where to begin. We finally seem to be settling into our routines here, with the minor hiccup of multiple people in 'sick bay' during the last trip. No big deal, just "flu season", but still. Annoying.

So the trip started with two of us suffering from the flu, and having to hike about 3 km into our next site. With full packs. In the mid day sun. In the tropics. I think we sweated all the ills out of our system about 20 minutes into the hike.

But once at camp, we settled in quite quickly. Our normal routine is to get camp set up, meaning set up our tents, get our gear organized, and get some food as well. We recruit someone from each community that we stay in to be our 'tenant' (land to set up our tents on), as well as our camp cook. Which, I have learned, makes life a bit easier for us. When we come back from our time in the field, we don't have to spend time preparing meals, but rather it is ready every day about the same time. It allows for a little bit of relaxation in camp. And then while those of us suffering from the flu rested, the boss and others went to find our first banding area, and trim some mist net lanes.

So, not much else to report from there. Life gets to be kind of routine here. We are a little tired of crackers as snacks. I never tire of yogurt though. Or salads. And I am beginning to FULLY appreciate bucket showers! I have decided Peru is hotter than Australia, but only because it never cools here, even at night. While Australia, it at least got cool enough at night to need a sleeping bag.

But of course, many of you might be interested in the bird highlights of the trip. I am currently JUST shy of 1.300 species for the world. How shy? Three, count'em (not quite yet!), THREE shy.

So, the bird highlights?

We caught a Royal Flycatcher, which is a wild bird to handle. Not frisky, but it has this big red crest. Think Dilophosorus in the movie Jurassic Park. And it opens it's bill, and opens the crest, and slowwwwly moves its head back and forth. One wild looking bird.

We caught a Red-necked Woodpecker, which is in the same genus as the (presumed) extinct Ivory-billed Woodpecker. HUGE bird to handle. I did not envy my boss, who suffered some pecking from it.

Oodles of different antbirds, for me one of the quintessential rainforest birds. Our first net area was probably near an army ant swarm, that many of these species follow. So I got good looks (a great way to learn new birds!) at the different species we caught.

But for me, it is always a highlight to see new species of bird, NOT in the hand. My list, my rules. Anyway, I entered this past trip at 1.268 species. I left there having seen 23 more, well above my intended average per day. The highlight day for me was day 6 or so, when Jamie, Percy, Suzanna, and I walked a little slower than the rest. And we found this nice area, at just the right time, that I got 5 new birds in 5 minutes. Which does not happen often here. Just one of those things, that after a long, somewhat boring, hot day at the banding area, makes you forget all about the sweat, the heat, the funny shirt smell (also referred to as rancid hobo), and the lack of cold ANYTHING.

Another highlight? Birdwatching from the porch of the Nicoro Bar today in Iquitos. 6 new birds, while gazing across the Amazonian Rainforest. With a beer in hand.

Life doesn't get much better than that.