Xiphorhynchus obsoletus

[Morning on the Rio Nanay, near the community of San Martin]

I will try to make sure I label the blog pictures from now on. [and videos, when applicable].

So, on 18 October 2010, the crew of six headed on our first boat ride to one of our field sites. First, it was a short (1 hour) autobus ride, fully loaded with us and gear (including the roof!) to the port of Bujurci, where we transferred us, and our gear, to the pekepeke (pronounced peKApeKa), the type of boat used on the Rio Nanay. Pretty much, think of a canoe with a motor (the pekepeke is the sound the engine makes). Shallow draft. But the roof is useful to keep the sun, and ever threatening rain, off one's head. And thus, we headed up river.

The Rio Nanay is a tributary of the Amazon. Our areas are north of the Amazon River - the Amazon River is actually more east of us here than south, but for biogeographic purposes (ranges of animal species) we are "north" of the Amazon. A short distance downriver from us, the Nanay enters the Amazon. From that junction, going upriver the Amazon is Nauta, where the Maranon joins the Ucayali to form the Amazon river. It is hard to describe in words, but if you find a geographic map of Peru, you can determine what I mean.

We journey up the Nanay. No matter the height of the river, it's speed is pretty consistent, slow, since the elevation gradient from here to the ocean is very gentle. We are about 2.000 river kilometers from the Atlantic ocean, and our elevation is only about 400 meters. So, the pekepeke doesn't have to fight a strong current, but there is a current. We travel by boat about an hour and half up river, taking some much needed rest along the way (it was a busy weekend in Iquitos).
[photo courtesy of Maru Lacoretz. I'm on the left, Lillia on the right, and Judit, my boss, is the legs you see in front of Lillia. That's most of our gear between us all. The roof is interwoven palm fronds].

After an hour and half, we arrive at the "port" for San Martin. The port is a sand beach. We muddily unload ourselves and our gear, arrange for the return ride in 12 days time (and one days time for two of our crew), and say goodbye to our outside contact. Then, most of us wait on the beach and in the shade while the boss and our Peruvian crew go to the community (a 15 minute walk) to introduce ourselves and arrange our stay and living conditions.

So, we had some time to pass. Gazing over the river is nice. For me, I really enjoy looking over the river and forest, and thinking of all the animals and critters there, and really how small we are in this grand world (and universe, for that matter).

When we first disembarked, I heard a hawk over our head. And after we made arrangements and relaxed a little, I saw the hawk. Near our head was an adult Black-collared Hawk, a common bird at river edge forest. It had a young bird nearby, that was persistently begging. Bird number 1.296!

Bird number 1.297 was more awesome - though I think all birds are awesome (well, maybe excepting house sparrows, rock doves, and starlings, but I digress). After gazing at the hawk, I noticed a black bird, quietly calling, about 100m away up a dried quebrada (stream). Using the binoculars, I notice there is no white in the face, and the bill is red, and the entire bird is a dark blue, almost black. Black-fronted Nunbird! WOO HOO!

So, San Martin was already a great place for me. I felt I could relax - that new birds would come to me there. I had no idea....

After watching the Nunbird for a while, I returned to the beach, to gaze over the river and rest (as I said, the weekend was busy, plus the sun was pretty intense). Then Suzanna, the other Peruvian, called me over to some birds calling by the forest (plus, I had my binoculars; she hadn't brought hers since she was returning to Iquitos the next day).

On the ground was a very drab bird, acting and looking like a flycatcher. There were two adults and couple of youngsters, making lots of noise. Later identification confirmed these as Drab Water-tyrants. A drab bird with a drab name - how appropriate. Bird number 1.298!

And more noise was heard. A consistent "turl turl turl url url url url urlurlee'ee". Eventually, the bird popped into view. Black-crested Antshrike! Bird number 1.299! I'm becoming quite fond of the various antbird groups.

At this point, I KNEW that I had seen new birds. I didn't have my field guide on me (it was buried in my one bag). I also had seen a small flycatcher-like bird in the tree (later identified as Spotted Tody-flycatcher) that I thought was new, but wasn't (I saw it about 3 weeks prior in the garden at the hostel). Then, we spied a woodcreeper.

Woodcreepers are difficult to identify. They are brown birds, with various forms of spots and streaks (and sometimes bars) on the back, head, and chest. Or lack them. They are similar to woodpeckers, and spend most of their time on tree trunks and limbs. Meaning it is hard to see field marks on the front of the bird. From my experiences in the tropics, I knew what to look for. First, I noticed the fairly straight, thickish, and shortish, creamy colored bill. Since I saw that, I took note of the birds relative size, and confirmed shape of the bill (I knew there were only two birds I had to choose from). When I could, I looked at the chin.

I did not know it at the time that it was number 1.300. I didn't even know for sure that the bird was new (as I said, I didn't have the guide handy).

But the next bird helped me know I was there. Cause I wasn't finished with new birds in this little spot! We had heard a wren sporadically sing here and there in that area, so I was anxious to see it show itself. And eventually, it did. Very well, in fact, for a brief (but intensive scrutinizing) 5 seconds. I guess I really know what to look for in identifying certain birds down here; I was able to keep images of all these birds in my head! Bars on wings. Striping in the head. Small. Buff underneath. Buff-breasted Wren!

So, at this point, I KNEW I had to have gotten 1.300 (the woodcreeper was the only 'not sure if it's new' species). So yeah, I did a little bird dance (it will be filmed tonight at the bar - I am keeping to my word of buying a round of beer for the crew).

When we got to the community and settled in a little, I pulled out my guidebook and checked on all the birds we saw. Bird number 1.300 turned out to be Xiphorhynchus obsoletus, the Striped Woodcreeper.

That was a good day. A very good day. I felt relieved that I finally passed 1.300 (a goal of mine, and actually also a New Year's resolution that was phrased as being 'if given the opportunity').

But San Martin decided to procure even more gifts for me, along the line of new birds. And photo opportunities. And of exciting things.

This site was the most diverse, and had the highest quantity of captures, of birds so far this season. All this with the smallest crew - four - of the season. It was great! I got to see Ringed Antpipit in the hand, along with Allpahuayo Antbird (endemic to our habitat), Zimmer's Antbird, Yellow-browed Antbird (quite colorful for an antbird), and Black-faced Antbird. But the highlight of our captures?
We caught a toucanet! The Golden-collared Toucanet! What a catch!

I don't count captured birds in my life list, but in the listing phase, I was not disappointed. I saw another species of hummingbird (Gray-breasted Sabrewing) when we discovered a nest of one next to the trail. I saw my first cotinga of the area on afternoon when walking home, the Plum-throated Cotinga. I saw my second COUNTABLE toucan of the season, when I saw the Many-banded Aracari in the trees on morning on the way to work. But for spectacular looking birds, nothing quite beat the Paradise Tanager: gold head, purple throat, light blue belly, black wings, red rump, black tail. It's like you give a kid a picture of a bird and tell him/her to color it how they want!

San Martin was very productive. It even felt almost cozy, with only the four of us there after the first night. We had adventurous stream crossings (sometimes boot free, sometimes over a log), an all day rainstorm, volleyball games, stream playing, lots of fresh fish, lots of birds, various nests found, and only mild illness (probably just sheer exhaustion, but who knows).

And the day we left rounded off the trip for me beautifully. While waiting for the boat, I saw a Capped Heron while taking a trip to water the bushes. A perfect end to the trip. So my list now stands at 1.311 species. And I already wonder - what will the next trip bring (aside from even MORE gear in the pekepeke. We have added 3 more people to our crew!).

Please see my flickr page for more photos I took.